Levenson's Guide: Castleberry Hill

[lethalweapon3]

Location: One-half-mile south of “the Gulch”, via Centennial Olympic Park Drive

What Is It: A pedestrian-friendly (but only once you get there) urban neighborhood with restaurants and shops, best known as Atlanta’s historic visual arts district.

 

(illustration by Zohar Lazar, in Atlanta Magazine)

 

History: Drunks! Whores! Rowdies! Cockfighters! Such was the prevailing scene around downtown Atlanta… in the 1840s.

Atlanta’s first person to run for Mayor, Moral Party leader and industrialist Jonathan Norcross, vowed to return law and order to the streets by publicly shaming the miscreants, and the red-light-district establishments that held them, right out of the city central.

 

Elected on his second try in 1850, Norcross also became essentially Atlanta’s police chief, and he organized raids of Atlanta’s “shanty town” establishments. Many of the rowdies shifted their activities from Five Points to a more hospitable locale a mile southwest of downtown, a community called “Snake Nation” that the press deemed “devoted almost entirely to the criminal and immoral element”.

While times were slithery in and around Snake Nation (at least, until Norcross’ raiders burned down that settlement, too), the area also laid adjacent to the budding railroad lines Norcross advocated, particularly the Macon and Western Railroad flanked by Peters and Whitehall Streets. Soon after the ruffians came the factory builders. By the time the Civil War was underway, Castleberry Hill was teeming with factories producing terra cotta and building materials, along with cotton warehousers, butchers, blacksmiths, meat packers, and grocers.

 

One of the grocer outfits was run by the Castleberrys, the family the Snake Nation neighborhood was wisely renamed after. Daniel Castleberry was an early settler who owned land along Walker Street. M.T. Castleberry was a former Confederate Army soldier, shot in the face at Antietam, who wanted nothing to do with “issues of the past,” but instead immersed himself in the revival of Atlanta (during Reconstruction) and the industrializing New South.

M.T. and Zach Castleberry were prominent businessmen in the furniture-making and terra cotta production fields in the late 19^th century. By this time, a mule-drawn trolley was transporting workers and citizens across the Peters Street Bridge between Downtown, this community, and West End.

 

 

Fast forward over a century later, and deindustrialization began in earnest the process of factory closures. The ghost-town factory settings were ideal for filmmakers searching for dystopian backdrops, as well as the arrival of adventurous urban dwellers, most notably local artists on the hunt for cheap intown loft living.

 

Today: Communal interest in economically stabilizing the community around its many art galleries and studios (and many artists that live there) led to the establishment of the Castleberry Hill Art Stroll. Held on the second Friday of every month from 7 to 10 PM, the Art Stroll not only adds vibrancy to the area between Downtown and West End, but helped establish Castleberry Hill (according to USA Today last year) as one of America’s Top 10 city arts districts. Food trucks and bands liven up the street scene between Art Stroll venues.

The neighborhood maintains its 20^th-century warehouse aesthetic, but the streets (particularly Walker Street, the main artery south of Philips Arena, and Peters Street) are walkable and well-lit. And more modern-looking loft developments (with first-floor shops) have since joined the party.

 

Grub: Among the busiest eateries in Castleberry Hill is No Mas! Cantina, featuring well-portioned Mexican dishes in a spacious setting loaded with Mexican art décor (some of it, naturally, for sale). A wide range of Mexican brews, margaritas and tequila options will help wash the food down. The space is flexible enough to accommodate parties of all sizes (call ahead with reservations if you’ve got more than five with you). In my experience, wait service can be spotty at lunchtime, so don’t hesitate to grab a nearby server if yours has disappeared for a minute. They’re also a clever option for Mexican-oriented breakfast and brunch.

 

The signature hole-in-the-wall neighborhood pub, Elliott Street Deli and Pub, is just as good for its Boar’s Head-centric deli sandwiches as it is for its pub fare. Elliot Street hosts Karaoke in the hours after the monthly Art Stroll. “The 51” is its event stage, and is almost always rocking on mid-week nights. True to the neighborhood’s industrial edge, Atlanta Metal Arts stages an occasional Iron Pour (yes, exactly what it sounds like) and concert outdoors in a neighboring lot, so ask ahead if that intrigues you.

If sushi is your thing you should try Bottle Rocket, in a much more swanky setting (the burgers and “crab sammiches” are underrated here as well). I’m useless in the sushi department (eel sauce? I’ll pass), but I am told the ones with tempura shrimp in them are yummy.

About a dozen years ago, the historic Paschal’s Restaurant moved from Clark Atlanta University to newer, airy digs at the Loft at Castleberry Hill, facing Northside Drive. Reportedly, MLK used to enjoy the soup at the former AUC spot. Many eateries in Atlanta have recently fallen in love with special “fried chicken nights” for the foodie crowd, but few offerings compare to Paschal’s “Famous 1947” entree. Menu items are a tad pricey, but you won’t complain about being hungry when you leave.

Very much not a hole-in-the-wall is Smoke Ring. Rightfully, you’d give pause whenever a woodsy barbecue joint has an Executive Chef. But their “low-and-slow” smoked meats and a plethora of sides and snacks happily take the edge off of their upscale veneer. Last week they catered and co-hosted a season-premiere party for The Walking Dead (a Bob-E-Que. Get It? Okay, never mind!) with Atlanta Movie Tours.

 

 

Arts ‘n Stuff: It would be unfair to try mentioning all of the galleries in Castleberry Hill. But many of them (I’ll call out Besharat Gallery and Marcia Wood Gallery, in particular) have taken up modest 19th- and early 20^th-century spaces and created stunning interiors to showcase their exhibits. Many are participating in this month’s Atlanta Celebrates Photography annual festival.

Castleberry Hill serves as an apt focal point for TV and film production in the metro area. The previously-noted Atlanta Movie Tours has a gift shop and runs tours of just about everywhere filmmakers and TV show producers call for “Action!” in the ATL, from The Walking Dead to Driving Miss Daisy to The Hunger Games. This month, obviously, is big for their Big Zombie Tours. Call well in advance to book a tour. If you’re in need of a cool zombie shirt or some Gone with the Wind knick-knacks for your Aunt Petunia, this is the place for you.

Whether you dress like Travis Scott or Mike Scott, you’ll find the hip (fly? dope?) apparel and sneaks you need at Fly Kix ATL boutique on Peters Street. If Mitchell & Ness items, Billionaire Boys Club tees, or swaggy New Balance sneakers (did I just type that) are your cup of tea, or you need to up your Sock Game, it’s worth popping in to see what they’ve got in store (they’ve got Hawks/NBA fitteds and related stuff there, too).

 

Tips:

• Going south from the arena, Centennial Olympic Park Drive (briefly, “Dominique Wilkins Way,” in front of Philips) becomes Walker Street, which threads through the center of Castleberry Hill.
• The Gulch, of course, is VERY desolate at night, and even more daunting these days with the Mercedes-Benz Stadium construction going on beside the Georgia Dome. So I’d discourage foot traffic from the Centennial Olympic Park area UNLESS it’s mid-day, there’s good weather, and you’ve good energy to burn and time to kill (all of the above must apply).
• With your own ride, a rental car, or Uber/taxi, it’s a quick dash to the area where C.O.P. Drive (due to nearby construction, a two-way street, at least for now) becomes Walker Street. Curb parking is minimal, but there are lots behind/near many of the restaurants and galleries. Park at the lofts only while you’re visiting retail there.
• MARTA rail doesn’t serve Castleberry Hill, but it’s roughly a ten-minute walk south from the Dome/Arena/GWCC Station next to Philips (see my advisory above about walking). Add another five minutes one-way if you’re walking from Centennial Olympic Park or the Streetcar stop on C.O.P. Drive. Bus Route 13 takes riders to the southern edge of Castleberry Hill from Five Points Station – get off at Peters and Haynes Streets, then walk a short couple blocks to Walker Street.
• Ideal times to visit? Lunchtime, or during idle afternoon hours leading up to Hawks games, or after weekend/holiday Hawks matinees. Most galleries are open during the afternoon and early evening hours, but call ahead or check websites for specifics. More of the bar action is in the evenings, so plan ahead with your transportation.
• The times NOT to go? Those eight times a year (hopefully a couple more!) when the Falcons are playing at home. Tailgaters abound, and parking just to hang out in the neighborhood is a bear during those times.

 

Upcoming Art Stroll Dates: November 13, December 11, January 8, February 12, March 11, April 8, May 13, June 10.

 

Links:

http://www.castleberryhill.org/chartstroll/

http://www.castleberryhill.org/about/

http://www.atlantamagazine.com/crime-city/the-most-lawless-year-in-atlantas-history/

http://clatl.com/atlanta/castleberry-hill/Content?oid=5102811

http://experience.usatoday.com/america/story/best-of-lists/2014/05/07/10-best-city-art-districts-around-the-usa/8807535/

http://atlantamovietours.com/

https://www.facebook.com/AtlantaMetalArts

 

~lw3

[macdaddy]

Good stuff.  I like it down there and I highly recommend Elliot Street Pub for pregame food and drink.   It's a serious hole in the wall but the sandwichs are tasty and the folks working there are really nice.  It's a short walk to the dome and even shorter to the new dome (meet the new dome, same as the old dome).   Walk to Philips shouldn't be too bad either.   Have Uber drop you off there and you're golden.